In This Guide

• Why 3D Print Your Own D&D Miniatures? The Cost, Freedom & Magic
• Resin vs. FDM: Which 3D Printer Is Right for Miniatures?
• Best 3D Printers for D&D Miniatures at Every Budget [2026]
• 12 Best Sources for D&D Miniature STL Files [Free & Premium Ranked]
• The Printing Goes Ever On: EverOn’s 3D Printable Miniature Collection
• From File to Figure: How to 3D Print a Miniature Step-by-Step
• Post-Processing & Painting: Turning Raw Prints Into Table-Ready Minis
• Troubleshooting: The 7 Most Common 3D Printing Fails (And How to Fix Them)
• Building a Miniature Library: Organization, Storage & Display
• FAQ: 3D Printable D&D Miniatures

Why 3D Print Your Own D&D Miniatures? The Cost, Freedom & Magic

There’s a moment at the table – just before the Dungeon Master places a freshly painted miniature on the battlemap – when every player leans forward. That moment is the difference between saying “you see an adult red dragon” and dropping a colossal, gleaming, hand-painted wyrm onto the grid while the table collectively loses its mind. Miniatures do something that no amount of verbal description can replicate: they make the imaginary tangible. And in 2026, making those miniatures yourself has never been easier, cheaper, or more rewarding.

Consider the economics. A single pre-painted Wizkids Nolzur’s adult dragon retails for $50–80. A resin 3D print of a comparable model costs roughly $1.50–3.00 in materials. The math is staggering: for the price of three or four retail miniatures, you can buy a budget resin printer and produce hundreds of models. The tabletop gaming market reached $19.5 billion in 2024 and continues to grow, and a significant part of that growth is fueled by the accessibility of home 3D printing.

But the real magic of 3D printing D&D miniatures isn’t just cost savings – it’s creative freedom. Want a tiefling warlock with a specific pose, specific weapon, and a tentacle arm? No manufacturer makes that. But somewhere in the vast ecosystem of STL file creators, someone has sculpted exactly that – or you can kitbash components to build it yourself. Your character, your way, rendered in physical form at a resolution that rivals injection-molded plastic.

This guide covers everything you need to go from “I’ve never touched a 3D printer” to “I just printed and painted an entire encounter’s worth of monsters in a weekend.” We’ll walk through printer selection, the best places to find STL files (free and premium), the printing process itself, painting basics, and how to build an organized miniature library that grows alongside your campaigns.

Browse 3D printable miniatures from The Printing Goes Ever On

Resin vs. FDM: Which 3D Printer Is Right for Miniatures?

Before you invest in a printer, you need to understand the fundamental choice: resin (MSLA/SLA) or filament (FDM). For miniatures, this choice is overwhelmingly clear – but there are nuances worth understanding.

Resin Printers (MSLA): The Miniature Standard

Resin printers use UV light to cure liquid photopolymer resin layer by layer, achieving XY resolutions as fine as 18–25 microns – that’s finer than a human hair. The result is smooth, incredibly detailed miniatures with no visible layer lines. Facial features, chainmail texture, individual scales on a dragon, flowing cloaks with fabric folds – all rendered crisply. For 28mm tabletop miniatures, resin is the gold standard.

The downsides are real but manageable: uncured resin is toxic and requires gloves and ventilation, post-processing involves washing and UV curing, and the process produces waste that needs careful disposal. A wash-and-cure station ($40–80) is practically essential. Despite these extra steps, the output quality is so superior for miniatures that 95% of serious hobbyists choose resin.

FDM Printers: Best for Terrain, Not Faces

FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printers extrude melted plastic filament in layers, typically at 50–200 micron resolution. This is perfectly adequate for large terrain pieces, dungeon walls, buildings, and vehicles, but it produces visible layer lines on small-scale miniatures. A 28mm face printed on FDM will look noticeably rougher than the same face printed on resin.

That said, FDM has advantages: it’s cheaper to run, materials (PLA filament) are non-toxic and easy to handle, and large terrain prints are significantly faster. The ideal setup for a serious D&D hobbyist? A resin printer for miniatures and an FDM printer for terrain. But if you can only choose one, choose resin.

🎯 The One-Sentence Verdict

If you’re printing miniatures for D&D, buy a resin printer. If you’re printing dungeon tiles and buildings, buy an FDM printer. If you’re serious about both, eventually get both.

Best 3D Printers for D&D Miniatures at Every Budget [2026]

The resin printer market has matured dramatically. You can now get exceptional miniature-quality prints at every price point. Here are our recommendations based on extensive testing and community consensus.

Budget: Anycubic Photon Mono 4 (~$170)

The best entry point into miniature printing in 2026. The Photon Mono 4 delivers 10K resolution (17 × 17 micron pixel size) at a price that’s almost absurdly low for what you get. The build volume (153 × 87 × 165mm) comfortably fits 8–12 standard 28mm miniatures per print. The straightforward interface makes it genuinely beginner-friendly. This is the printer we recommend to anyone who says “I want to try 3D printing minis but I’m not sure if I’ll stick with it.” You will stick with it.

Anycubic Photon Mono 4 (~$170)

Mid-Range: Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra (~$270–340)

The Mars 5 Ultra is the workhorse of the miniature printing community. It combines 9K resolution (18µm XY resolution), a built-in AI camera for remote monitoring, auto-leveling with mechanical sensors, and Elegoo’s exceptionally refined tilt-release system that reduces print failures. The speed – up to 150mm/hour – means a full plate of miniatures prints in 1.5–2 hours. Elegoo’s community and customer support are industry-leading.

Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra (~$270–340)

Enthusiast: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra (~$400–525)

If you’re committed to miniature printing and want the best consumer-grade experience available, the Saturn 4 Ultra is the community’s consensus pick for 2026. 12K resolution (11520 × 5120 pixels) delivers detail so fine that the limiting factor becomes your painting ability, not your printer. The build volume (218 × 122 × 220mm) is large enough to print 20–30 miniatures per batch or a single massive dragon model. AI-powered failure detection, automatic resin level monitoring, and tilt release technology make it remarkably reliable. This is the printer we use in-house at EverOn Games for testing our STL files.

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra (~$400–525)

Professional: Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro (~$550)

For DMs and painters who want absolute maximum detail and speed, the M7 Pro offers 14K resolution with COB LighTurbo 3.0 light technology that delivers uniform exposure across the entire build plate. This translates to sharper details on edge miniatures (a common weakness of cheaper printers). Print speeds are blistering. The trade-off is a steeper learning curve – you’ll want to tune exposure settings per resin type for optimal results.

Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro (~$550)

Essential accessories: Whichever printer you choose, budget an additional $60–100 for a wash-and-cure station (Elegoo Mercury Plus V3.0 or Anycubic Wash & Cure 3), a bottle of quality resin (Elegoo Standard Rapid or Anycubic Plant-Based are excellent starting points at ~$20/L), and basic safety supplies: nitrile gloves, a silicone mat for your workspace, and paper towels. Total all-in starter cost including printer: $230–$600 depending on tier.

Twelve Best Sources for D&D Miniature STL Files [Free & Premium Ranked]

A 3D printer without STL files is like a D&D campaign without a Dungeon Master – technically possible, but deeply unsatisfying. Here are the twelve best places to find miniature files, from completely free libraries to premium Patreon subscriptions that deliver cinema-quality sculpts monthly.

#1: The Printing Goes Ever On (EverOn Games)

We built The Printing Goes Ever On for DMs who want miniatures that match their adventures. Every STL file is designed at 28mm real scale, print-tested on consumer resin printers, and grouped into thematic Chapters so entire encounter casts download as unified sets. Dragon cultists. Frostbound warriors. Desert nomads. Undead hordes. Each Chapter is a complete visual ecosystem for a campaign arc, eliminating the tonal mismatch you get when mixing files from five different creators. Members get access to the full backlog plus free 3D printable scatter terrain with every subscription.

Type: Premium (Membership / MyMiniFactory Tribes) | Price: $10–15/month

Best for: DMs who want campaign-ready, thematically consistent miniature sets that integrate with EverOn Adventure Kits.

Browse The Printing Goes Ever On

#2: Loot Studios

One of the largest and most popular miniature STL subscriptions. Loot Studios releases a new themed bundle every month featuring heroes, villains, NPCs, terrain, props, and scenic elements – typically 20–40 files per bundle. The sculpt quality is outstanding, with dynamic poses and rich surface detail. The welcome pack (including two tavern sets and a can holder) is a nice touch. Coverage spans dark fantasy, steampunk, horror, and historical settings.

Type: Premium (subscription) | Price: $15–25/month

Best for: Hobbyists who want massive monthly drops of diverse, high-quality sculpts across multiple genres.

Loot Studios

#3: Titan Forge Miniatures

Titan Forge consistently delivers some of the most versatile monthly sets in the hobby. Each month’s theme includes both large monsters and small humanoids, terrain elements, and hero characters – usable for D&D, wargames, and skirmish games. The sculpts are pre-supported, saving significant prep time. Their Kickstarter campaigns offer exceptional value for building a large library quickly.

Type: Premium (Patreon) | Price: $10–15/month

Best for: Gamers who play both D&D and wargames (Warhammer, etc.) and want files usable across systems.

Titan Forge Miniatures on Patreon

#4: Artisan Guild

Artisan Guild produces some of the most visually striking character miniatures in the STL space. Their focus is quality over quantity: each month features fewer models than Loot Studios, but every sculpt is a showcase piece with intricate detail, weapon variants, and both small and large scale versions. Models come pre-hollowed for larger sculpts, saving resin.

Type: Premium (Patreon / Tribes) | Price: $10–12/month

Best for: Painters and collectors who prioritize sculpt artistry and want display-worthy character minis.

Artisan Guild on Patreon

#5: MyMiniFactory (Marketplace)

The largest curated marketplace for 3D printable miniatures. Every file on MyMiniFactory is test-printed before listing, which dramatically reduces the risk of downloading unprintable models. The free section includes hundreds of quality minis. The Tribes subscription system lets you subscribe to individual creators (including The Printing Goes Ever On) and access their full backlogs.

Type: Free & paid marketplace | Price: Free – $15 per pack

Best for: Anyone who wants a one-stop marketplace with guaranteed printability and creator variety.

MyMiniFactory

#6: Cults3D (Free Library)

Cults3D hosts one of the largest collections of free D&D STL files anywhere – over 2,800 free D&D-tagged models. Quality varies widely (no print-testing requirement), but filtering by downloads and ratings surfaces excellent free sculpts. The platform also features premium models from independent creators. Great for filling specific gaps in your collection without spending anything.

Type: Free & paid marketplace | Price: Many free, premium varies

Best for: Budget-conscious printers looking for specific models: a particular monster, race, or class.

Cults3D – Free D&D Models

#7: Thingiverse (Free)

The oldest and largest general-purpose 3D printing repository has a substantial D&D section. Search for “D&D miniature” and you’ll find thousands of results. Quality is extremely inconsistent – but the gems are genuinely excellent. The community “make” system lets you see what other people’s prints look like before downloading, which is invaluable for quality-checking.

Type: Free | Price: Free

Best for: Hobbyists willing to dig for free gems and who want to see community print results before downloading.

Thingiverse

#8: Eldritch Foundry (Custom Creator)

Eldritch Foundry offers a browser-based character creator where you design your own miniature – choosing race, body type, armor, weapons, pose, and accessories – and then download the STL for $5 or order a physical print. The “Eldritch Unlimited” subscription ($10/month) lets you create and download unlimited custom STL files. Perfect for player characters who need to look exactly right.

Type: Custom + subscription | Price: $5 per STL / $10/month unlimited

Best for: Players who want custom miniatures matching their specific character builds.

Eldritch Foundry

#9: Printable Scenery

The premier source for 3D printable terrain: dungeon tiles, modular buildings, bridges, towers, scatter terrain, and environmental elements. While not focused on character miniatures, Printable Scenery is essential for DMs who want to build physical dungeon environments alongside their minis. OpenLOCK compatibility means pieces snap together without glue.

Type: Premium (store + Kickstarter) | Price: $5–40 per set

Best for: DMs building physical terrain sets to complement their miniature collections.

Printable Scenery

#10: HeroForge (Custom Creator)

The original custom miniature creator and still one of the most feature-rich. The web-based designer lets you sculpt detailed characters with an extraordinary range of options: species, poses, equipment, familiars, mounts, and even facial expressions. STL downloads are $8 each. The sculpt quality has improved significantly over the years and now produces excellent prints on modern resin printers.

Type: Custom | Price: $8 per STL

Best for: Players and DMs who want deep customization for unique characters and NPCs.

HeroForge

#11: DMs Guild – 3D Print Packs

A smaller selection than dedicated STL platforms, but DMs Guild occasionally features 3D printable supplements that include STL files alongside adventure content. This is a niche source but worth checking for themed packs that combine adventures with matching miniatures.

Type: Free & paid | Price: Free – $10

Best for: DMs who want adventure content and matching miniature files in a single purchase.

DMs Guild

#12: Reddit r/PrintedMinis

Not a file source per se, but the single best community resource for 3D printing D&D miniatures. Over 200K members share print results, troubleshoot failures, review STL creators, and post links to free files. If you’re stuck on a print setting, this subreddit will solve it within hours. Essential reading for any miniature printer.

Type: Community (free) | Price: Free

Best for: Everyone – join this community regardless of which sources you use for files.

r/PrintedMinis

The Printing Goes Ever On: EverOn’s 3D Printable Miniature Collection

The Printing Goes Ever On is the 3D printing arm of the EverOn Games family, and it was born from a simple frustration: as DMs ourselves, we kept finding beautiful miniature STL files that didn’t match each other. A dwarf fighter from one creator, an orc from another, a dragon from a third – all sculpted in different styles, at different scales, with different base sizes. On the table, they looked like they were from three different games.

So we built a system where miniatures are designed as thematic Chapters – complete encounter casts where every model shares a visual language. The Glacial Wilds Chapter gives you frost-themed enemies, NPCs, and heroes that look like they belong in the same frozen world. The Khanate Chapter delivers desert warriors, mounted cavalry, and nomadic creatures with consistent armor aesthetics and scale. Every Chapter is a visual toolkit for an entire campaign arc.

Here’s what sets our STL files apart:

28mm real scale, print-tested on consumer resin printers – every model is verified on Elegoo Mars, Saturn, and Anycubic Photon series printers before release.

Pre-supported files included – supports are built into the STL, optimized for clean removal with minimal scarring. Unsupported versions also available for advanced users.

Durability-first sculpting philosophy – swords don’t snap off. Cloaks don’t have paper-thin edges. Bases sit flat. Models survive actual table use.

Integrated with EverOn Adventure Kits – our monthly $2.99 adventure subscription features encounters designed around specific miniature sets. Print the minis, download the adventure, and run a session where every model matches the narrative.

Kickstarter track record – with over 3,000 backers across multiple campaigns and $150K+ raised, The Printing Goes Ever On has delivered consistently to a global community of creators and DMs.

EverOn Games subscribers get 20% off all physical and digital products from The Printing Goes Ever On, including STL bundles and the Ready, Set, Encounter! physical miniature encounter box (35 pre-made EverCast™ plastic minis + modular battlemaps). Not a printer? No problem – our physical products deliver the same design philosophy without requiring any hardware.

Browse the full STL collection by Chapter

Physical miniatures + battlemaps (no printer needed)

From File to Figure: How to 3D Print a Miniature Step-by-Step

Step 1: Download and Inspect the STL

Download your STL file from your chosen source. Open it in your slicer software (Lychee Slicer, Chitubox, or PrusaSlicer are the most popular for miniatures). Inspect the model: check for holes in the mesh, verify the scale is correct (28mm from feet to eyes for standard D&D minis), and ensure the base diameter matches your preference (25mm round is standard for medium creatures).

Step 2: Add Supports (If Not Pre-Supported)

If the file doesn’t come with built-in supports, you’ll need to add them in your slicer. Supports are thin structures that hold overhanging parts of the model during printing. Auto-support features in Lychee and Chitubox work well for most miniatures. For delicate details like outstretched weapons or flowing capes, add manual supports to prevent drooping. Light supports with small contact points are better – they’re easier to remove and leave less scarring.

Step 3: Slice and Configure

Slice the model using settings appropriate for your resin and printer. For most standard resins on modern printers, start with: layer height of 0.03–0.05mm (30–50 microns), bottom exposure of 25–35 seconds (for plate adhesion), normal exposure of 1.5–2.5 seconds (varies by resin and printer), and lift speed of 2–3mm/s. These settings deliver the best balance of detail and reliability. Your resin manufacturer’s recommended settings are a solid starting point.

Step 4: Prepare and Pour

Shake your resin bottle thoroughly (at least 30 seconds – pigments settle) and pour it into the printer’s vat. Don’t overfill – leave at least 1cm below the max line. Ensure the build plate is level (auto-leveling handles this on most modern printers). Double-check that the FEP film at the bottom of the vat is clean and undamaged.

Step 5: Print

Start the print and walk away. A plate of 10–15 miniatures typically takes 2–4 hours depending on model height and your printer’s speed. Resist the urge to open the printer mid-print – UV light and temperature fluctuations can cause failures. If your printer has a camera (Mars 5 Ultra, Saturn 4 Ultra), use it to check progress remotely.

Step 6: Remove and Wash

When complete, carefully remove the build plate from the printer. Use a plastic scraper or flex plate to detach the models. Place them in a wash station filled with isopropyl alcohol (IPA 90%+) for 2–3 minutes. For water-washable resins, plain water works. Don’t over-wash – excessive washing can soften fine details.

Step 7: Cure

After washing, place the models in a UV curing station for 3–6 minutes (or in direct sunlight for 10–15 minutes). Curing hardens the resin fully, making the models durable enough for handling, painting, and gaming. Under-cured prints will remain tacky and may warp over time.

Step 8: Remove Supports and Clean

Clip supports with flush cutters or carefully twist them off by hand. For stubborn support marks, a quick pass with fine-grit sandpaper (400–600 grit) or a hobby knife smooths the surface. This step is where the quality of your original support placement pays off – well-placed supports with small contact points leave almost no trace.

🎯 Pro Tip: The Warm Water Trick

Soaking cured prints in warm (not hot) water for 30 seconds before removing supports makes them pop off much more cleanly. The warmth softens the support contact points just enough to reduce scarring without affecting the model.

Post-Processing & Painting: Turning Raw Prints Into Table-Ready Minis

A raw resin print looks good. A painted resin print looks alive. You don’t need to be a professional painter to achieve impressive results – a few basic techniques can transform any 3D printed miniature from gray plastic to a tabletop centerpiece.

Priming

Always prime before painting. A thin coat of spray primer (Citadel, Army Painter, or Vallejo surface primer) in grey, white, or black gives paint something to grip. Grey primer is the most versatile starting point. Apply 2–3 light passes from 15–20cm away, rotating the model between passes. Let it dry completely (30–60 minutes).

Base Coating

Apply your main colors in thin, even layers. The golden rule: two thin coats are always better than one thick coat. Thin your paints slightly with water (a damp brush dipped in paint, then touched to a wet palette). Acrylic paints from Vallejo, Citadel, Army Painter, or even affordable craft acrylics all work well on primed resin.

Washing (Shade)

This single technique produces the biggest visual improvement with the least skill. A wash is thin, dark paint that flows into recesses and crevices, creating instant shadows and depth. Apply a brown or black wash (Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil from Citadel are the community’s go-to) over the entire model. Suddenly, every belt buckle, wrinkle, and scale pops with definition. This step alone can take a model from “plastic blob” to “looks painted” in minutes.

Dry Brushing

The second magic technique. Load a brush with paint, then wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel. Lightly drag the nearly-dry brush across raised surfaces. The tiny amount of paint catches only the highest points, creating highlights that make the model look three-dimensional. Dry brushing with a lighter shade of your base color over a wash creates a professional-looking finish with minimal effort.

The “Three-Step Table Standard”

For DMs printing dozens of monsters, you don’t need competition-level painting. The three-step table standard produces great-looking models at speed: (1) prime, (2) base coat in 2–3 colors, (3) wash the whole model. That’s it. A batch of 10 goblins can be painted to table standard in an hour. Reserve detailed painting for player characters, bosses, and display pieces.

Troubleshooting: The 7 Most Common 3D Printing Fails (And How to Fix Them)

Problem 1: Print stuck to FEP, not build plate

Fix: Increase bottom layer exposure time by 5–10 seconds. Clean the build plate with IPA and lightly sand it with 400-grit sandpaper. Ensure the plate is properly leveled.

Problem 2: Supports failing mid-print (islands)

Fix: Add more supports to overhanging areas. Use your slicer’s “island detection” feature (Lychee has this built-in). Increase support density for heavy or wide models.

Problem 3: Layer lines or banding visible on smooth surfaces

Fix: Check that the FEP film isn’t clouded or damaged. Reduce lift speed to 1–2mm/s for smoother layer transitions. Ensure resin is at room temperature (20–25°C).

Problem 4: Hollow models cracking during curing

Fix: Add drainage holes (at least 2, on the bottom of the base) so uncured resin doesn’t build pressure inside hollow prints. Cure in shorter intervals rather than one long session.

Problem 5: Detail loss on small features (faces, fingers)

Fix: Reduce layer height to 0.03mm. Lower normal exposure by 0.2–0.5 seconds (over-exposure “blooms” and fills in fine detail). Use a higher-resolution printer if possible.

Problem 6: Warped or bent parts (swords, staffs)

Fix: Ensure adequate support along the length of thin elements. Print thin parts at an angle rather than perfectly vertical. For post-print warping, a heat gun on low for 2–3 seconds can reshape cured resin.

Problem 7: Resin not curing / tacky surface after UV cure

Fix: Wash more thoroughly (the wash solution may be saturated with dissolved resin – replace IPA). Cure for longer or in stronger UV light. Ensure the model is completely dry before curing.

r/PrintedMinis – The community’s go-to troubleshooting resource

Building a Miniature Library: Organization, Storage & Display

Once you start printing, your collection grows fast. A single month of Patreon subscriptions can produce 20–40 models. After a year, you’re looking at hundreds. Organization is not optional – it’s the difference between a useful toolkit and a box of anonymous gray figures.

Digital File Organization

Organize STL files by creature type (Humanoids, Monsters, NPCs, Heroes, Terrain) with subfolders for specific categories. Use the naming convention: [Type][Name][Creator]_[Supported/Unsupported]. Example: Monster_AdultRedDragon_TPGEO_Supported.stl. Keep a simple spreadsheet logging every model you’ve printed, with columns for file name, creator, print date, resin used, and notes on print quality.

Physical Storage

For unpainted prints and gaming-use minis: stackable compartment boxes from hardware stores (fishing tackle boxes work brilliantly) provide cheap, protective storage. Line each compartment with a thin foam pad to prevent scratching. For painted display pieces: wall-mounted acrylic display cases or glass-doored cabinets protect while showcasing your work. Magnetic strip storage (magnets in the bases, metal strip on a board) is increasingly popular for compact, visible storage.

The “Encounter Kit” Approach

Instead of organizing purely by creature type, consider creating encounter kits – small plastic bags or boxes containing all the miniatures needed for a specific encounter or adventure session. Label each kit with the adventure name and session number. Before game night, grab the bag and you’re ready. This is exactly how the Ready, Set, Encounter! product is designed: a single box containing all miniatures, maps, and encounter content for an entire adventure arc.

Ready, Set, Encounter! – The all-in-one encounter kit with 35 physical miniatures

FAQ: 3D Printable D&D Miniatures

Q: How much does it cost to 3D print a D&D miniature?

A: Material cost per standard 28mm miniature is approximately $0.15–$0.50 in resin, depending on model size and hollowing. Including electricity and FEP film wear, realistic cost is about $0.30–$0.75 per mini. A full plate of 10–15 models costs roughly $3–8 in materials total.

Q: Is resin printing safe at home?

A: Yes, with proper precautions. Always wear nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin. Work in a ventilated area or use a printer enclosure with a carbon filter. Avoid skin contact and keep resin away from children and pets. Cured resin is inert and safe to handle. Most modern resins (especially plant-based options) have significantly reduced odor compared to older formulations.

Q: Can I sell miniatures I print from STL files?

A: This depends entirely on the creator’s license. Most Patreon and subscription STL files are licensed for personal use only – you can print for your own games but cannot sell the physical prints commercially. Some creators offer commercial licenses for an additional fee. Always check the specific license terms before selling any printed models.

Q: FDM or resin for D&D miniatures?

A: Resin, unequivocally. The detail resolution is 5–10x finer than FDM, producing smooth surfaces and crisp detail at 28mm scale. FDM is better for large terrain pieces, dungeon tiles, and buildings. The ideal setup is both: resin for minis, FDM for terrain.

Q: What scale are D&D miniatures?

A: Standard D&D miniatures are 28mm heroic scale, meaning a human-sized figure stands approximately 28mm from feet to eye level (about 32–33mm to top of head). Medium creatures use 25mm round bases. Large creatures use 50mm bases. The STL files from The Printing Goes Ever On and most reputable creators are designed at this exact scale.

Q: How long does it take to print a miniature?

A: A single 28mm miniature takes approximately 2–4 hours on a modern resin printer, but here’s the key advantage: you can print an entire plate of 10–20 minis in that same time, since resin printers cure entire layers at once regardless of how many models are on the plate. This makes batch printing extremely efficient.

Q: Do I need to paint 3D printed miniatures?

A: No – many DMs use unpainted (or simply primed) miniatures for regular sessions. Functional gameplay doesn’t require painting. But even basic painting (prime + wash) dramatically improves the visual experience at the table. The “three-step table standard” described in the painting section above produces great results with minimal skill and time investment.

Q: What’s the best slicer software for miniatures?

A: Lychee Slicer is the community favorite for miniature printing: it has excellent auto-support algorithms, island detection, hollowing tools, and export profiles for every major printer. Chitubox is a solid free alternative. PrusaSlicer works well for FDM terrain. All three are free or freemium.

Your Next Encounter Deserves Its Own Army

Every monster your players face. Every NPC they befriend or betray. Every dragon that descends from the sky. They all deserve a physical presence on your table. With a resin printer, a few STL subscriptions, and the techniques in this guide, you can build an entire world’s worth of miniatures for less than the cost of a single retail boxed set.

Start with The Printing Goes Ever On for campaign-ready STL sets, pair them with our $2.99/month Adventure Kits for matching encounters and battlemaps, or grab Ready, Set, Encounter! if you want the complete package with physical minis, maps, and encounters in one box.

Your table is about to look incredible.

3D printable STL miniatures by Chapter

Monthly Adventure Kits ($2.99/mo)

Physical encounter box (35 minis + maps)

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Related: Plug & Play Encounters Guide